Rough Country Flex Joint & Bushing Woes

Rough Country Trail Forged Rock Jock Johnny Joint Replacement

RC flex joints shot….again?

Rough Country is a hugely popular brand, largely in part due to price point. It’s a price point we don’t even try to compete with due to our superior product line and premium parts.  The old addage “buy once, cry once” also applies to how much time you spend under your rig fixing broken, subpar, shit. Our mentality is thus…

Build it well enough, with high quality parts, the first time…  so you can spend your time on the trails enjoying your rig, and not all your time on jackstands nickel-and-diming your way into replacement parts every six months.

Having said that, not everyone starts with a pristine, unmodified rig and builds it to it’s supreme level of performance right out of the gate. So you ended up with RC parts under your rig, and they just don’t last…. what now?

Now is the time to upgrade:

For customers with RC short or long arms, you can direct swap to genuine RockJock (Formerly Currie Enterprises) Johnny Joints by simply unthreading your old parts and threading the new ones right in. RockJock (formerly Currie) is THE golden standard, the benchmark, upon which all other flex joints are measured. They will outlast, outperform, and outflex every other joint on the market. It’s why they are the only joint we use for all our short and long arm applications.

For customers with taller lifts who have lower control arms threaded pretty far out, we now have a longer shank option Enduro Joint by Barnes 4WD that fits your lower control arms.

NEW!!! We now also have direct replacements for your press in bushings! We have a Trail Forged Better Bushing ™  option that presses right in and gives you far more performance and longevity.


Part numbers by location

Lower Control Arms, all: CE-9114

Lower Control Arms if you need long shanks: TFBJR16-9

Front Upper Control Arms: CE-9112SP

Rear Upper Control Arms (verified on TJ/LJ and ZJ): CE-9112SP

Upper Control Arms, for those wanting to upgrade to 1/2″ hardware: CE-9112SP-12

WJ Grand Cherokee only: Rear Upper A Arm: CE-9114

ZJ, TL/LJ, and WJ Track Bar: CE-9112N75-17 or CE-9112N75-13 (we suggest the -13 and upgraded bolt kit)

Press in bushings in lower control arms, and upper rear control arms on TJ/LJ, and ZJ: TFBB-05


WJ Grand Cherokee:

(5) CE-9114 or TFBJR16-9 for tall lifts

(2) CE-9112SP or SP-12 if you want to upgrade hardware

(1) CE-9112N75-17 or CE-9112N75-13 for TrackBar

(4) TFBB-05 Bushings


XJ Cherokee

(2) CE-9114 or TFBJR16-9 for tall lifts

(2) CE-9112SP or SP-12 if you want to upgrade hardware

(1) CE-9112N75-17 or CE-9112N75-13 for TrackBar

(2) TFBB-05 Bushings


TJ/LJ, or ZJ

(4) CE-9114 or TFBJR16-9 for tall lifts

(4) CE-9112SP or SP-12 if you want to upgrade hardware

(1) CE-9112N75-17 or CE-9112N75-13 for TrackBar

(6) TFBB-05 Bushings


Now… some important notes:

  • The Johnny Joints have regular length shanks, which are shorter than most RC joints. If your joints are threaded way way out, you may not have enough threaded shank on the Johnny Joint to safely use it. This is normally only on lower control arms on rigs lifted very high.
  • The press in bushings are a direct replacement for the proprietary RC bushing, but you will have to cut the flanged shoulder on your old RC bushing off in order to press them out. We use a cutoff disc to do this, then you have access to press the old bushing out.
  • WJ control arm brackets are a unique, wide width. The Johnny Joints are the standard 2.625″ wide, which means spacers should be used for flex joints being mounted in stock WJ brackets (does not apply to joints mounted in RC long arm brackets that are 2.625″ wide) … 2 at the axle end and 1 at the chassis end, depending on which end your adjustable joint is installed at. If your rig does not have spacers with flex joints in stock WJ brackets, you will need to get some here. Verify width to confirm


29 thoughts on “Rough Country Flex Joint & Bushing Woes

  1. Jeff says:

    Sean, you absolute GOAT of a man. Thank you so much for this priceless cheat sheet to replacing them crappy x flex joints!

  2. Sean Inglesby says:

    Thank you sir! That is the goal, get everyone the info they need to enjoy their rigs rather than be constantly fixing the broken shit on them!

  3. Mark S says:

    Hi Sean, the crappy RC long arm joints on my WJ squeak worse than a $2 bed. Is that the sign that they’ve gone bad? How easy is it to replace the flex joints? Is it just a matter of unbolting the long arm at the joint end, unscrewing the old joint and screwing in the new joint? Can it be done without lifting the jeep off the ground? Thank you!

    • Sean Inglesby says:

      I would try greasing it, but yeah they are known to fail super quick and it’s most likely worn out if it’s making a bunch of noise. These are direct replacements for the joints you have, and will thread right in. If you do one arm at a time its possible to do it without putting the Jeep on a lift, but having a floor jack and a stand or two will make the job easier on you.

  4. Sean says:

    Is there a kit or will I have to count and make sure I order every jam bit and new joint. Just don’t want to miss one joint and have to wait that much longer.

    • Sean Inglesby says:

      It depends on what RC kit you have. For a full long arm front and rear (with RC A arm) you’ll need 5 9114 joints and 2 9112SP joints.

  5. Matt s says:

    my driver side lower control arm rod end (long arm) on my XJ moves side to side pretty bad with proper torque on hardware.. called RC up and they sent me a new one…lasted 4 months haha it’s time to upgrade to johnny joints.

    • Sean Inglesby says:

      We don’t have a drop in replacement for the RC a arm. The mount width is very unique and only fits that one location on just the WJ.

  6. Chris Cinnamon says:

    Is it possible to retro fit your better bushing and mounting sleave to the body side of the rough country A arm ?

    • Sean Inglesby says:

      Sure, you could cut off the RC sleeve and weld in our sleeve. We have a few different sizes of bushings, one of them may be close enough to make work

  7. apdfrankvacante says:

    Hey Sean, I see the RC front long arm johnny joints and front lower control arm bushing, do you guys have a front upper long arm bushing?

    • Sean Inglesby says:

      Text us at ‪(707) 387-0074‬ and we can go over options, part numbers, etc. Some photos of your current setup showing all the joints would also be helpful in determining the right parts for you.

  8. John says:

    Good afternoon,
    I have the 4″ RC long arm kit on my WJ and see that the lower control arm flex joints are broken and need to replace them. My question is you offer the CE-9114 and the TFBJR16-9 for taller lifts. What is the length difference between the two? Reason I am asking is I saw on-line that the CE-9114 only has a 3″ thread length – is that correct?

    • Sean Inglesby says:

      That really depends on how far your axles are stretched out. If you snap some photos of your current joints installed, so that we can see the entire joint and the threaded shank, and text them to ‪(707) 387-0074‬ we’d be happy to take a look and see if you need the long shanks or not.

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