THE Toughest Steering for your Rig
No compromises, just the beef
THE largest, strongest tie rod on the market. Build from massive 2″ diameter 1026 DOM, it’s not only larger, but stronger than the 1020 most other’s use. Stronger than the same diameter solid aluminum, and harder so it won’t gouge, scratch, or dent as easily.
- MASSIVE 2″ thick 1026 DOM tube tie rod
- Cleverly engineered 1.75″ tubular drag link saves weight and reduces strain on your steering box
- Beefy Apex Chassis forged tie rod ends
- Ultra durable powder coating – Black and Silver Vein
- CAD Designed, tested on the toughest trails in the US
- Proudly built in Roanoke, Virginia
- Unwavering quality, if you’re not satisfied, neither are we!
Bolt in or drag link flip?
If you are at 4″ or less lift height, you will want the bolt in kit. Taller lifts can utilize the drag link flip if desired, BUT must be paired with a trackbar raise bracket to avoid poor bump geometry. Our drag link flip kit comes with the flip sleeve you will need. Your knuckle will need to be reamed to 7/8″ to install, we highly suggest using THIS reamer and NOT a drill bit for best results.
Axle Width Note:
- If you have the M186 front axle, it is the narrow width.
- ALL Rubicon, Mojave, Max Tow equipped vehicles are the wide front axle.
- If you are not 100% sure, measure the width of your tie rod from center of tie rod end to center of tie rod end. 58.5-59.5″ wide is the narrow axle, around 61.5″ is the wide axle.
Fitment Notes:
- 4.75″ Backspace or more (numerically smaller) is required with 17″ wheels. This means wheel spacers are required with most stock 17″ wheels. Larger wheel diameters require less backspacing.
Apex Chassis Tie Rod Ends:
HOUSING
- SAE 1045 Solid Steel Forged Housing:Â This is unequivocally the best carbon alloy steel for this application.
- CNC Machined Housing:Â Make our parts and bearings dimensionally perfect, eliminating any die wear issues.
BALL STUDS
- SAE 4140 hot forged Chromoly Ball Studs:Â For strongest possible metallurgy.
- Induction Heat Treated Ball Studs:Â Provides a very precise heat treatment to the exact depth and location we want it.
- Rolled Threads:Â Are made by pressing the shape of the threads into the ball stud instead of cutting. This strengthens the threads instead of weakening them and allows for easy movement of hardware. This ain’t no Ikea furniture!
- Step Threads :Â Allows for very easy movement of hardware on install and superior holding when torqued. (Installer Choice).
BEARING DESIGN
- Rugged Metal to Metal Bearing.
BOOTS
- CR Rubber Boots:Â The most durable material for undercar applications. Resistant to deterioration from road level ozone, oil/gas/engine fluids and extreme heat or cold
- Accordion Boot:Â ideal for high-articulation components, more flexibility means longer life.
FINISH
- E-Coating:Â Extremely durable electrochemical finishing process
LUBRICATION
- Pre-threaded Zerk Housing:Â If you have ever installed a MOOG Ball Joint without a pre-threaded zerk fitting you will understand what a simple but great feature this is. Another installer fav.
- Greaseable:Â Because it should be.
- Pre-Greased:Â Just in case you forget, we have you covered.
- Gull Winged Grease Grooves :Â Allows for improved lubrication disbursement around the ball stud.
- Zerk Fittings :Â Included for every application.
SPECIAL FEATURES
- Tie Rod Ends & RH Drag Link End – Flopper Stoppers Built In:Â Unlike the poly hockey pucks that most brands use, our heavy duty “Flopper Stoppers” are built into the tie rod end and drag link end bearings, giving you an industry leading 27 degrees of stud swing left and right and only 2 degrees of stud swing forward and aft, keeping your tie rod and drag link from rotating and flopping. The competitor hockey puck style systems also call for the removal of the tie rod end boot, which is there to keep the dirt out and the grease in.
- Minimum Engagement Mark on Drag Link End Threads:Â If this mark in the thread of the drag link is showing it means you are beyond the safe engagement of threads into the adjusting sleeve. You may be lifted too high and need to switch to a flip kit or you may need to equal out the adjusting sleeve between the two ends.
| Axle Width | Standard, Wide |
|---|---|
| Mounting | Bolt In, Drag Link Flip |
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